Means for forming a collar bead



' Oct. 27, 1936.

H. C, UNDERWOOD ET AL MEANS FOR FORMING A COLLAR BEAD Filed June 8, 1934 I ENTOR Ofld [Jade/wood flawarw J9. Baby a *rAlTORNEY Patented Oct. 27, 1936 PATENT OFFIQE MEANS FOR FORMING A COLLAR BEAD Howard C. Underwood and Edward B. Roby, New York, N. Y.

Application June 8, 1934, Serial No. 729,559

1 Claim.

Among the principal objects which the present invention has in view are: To provide an apparatus with means whereby garments such as collars,

lapels, cuffs and the like may be subjected to a preliminary treatment before being turned rightside out; to utilize such means to make an indentation line simultaneously with a row of stitching to the garment and adjacent to said row of stitching; to enable the garment to be turned rightside out after the line and row of stitching has beencompleted on the garment, and when turned right-side out the garment will readily fold on the indentation line; to create a beading adjacent the outer edge of the garment when right-side out and thereby prevent any overlapping of the material comprising the garment; and to secure simplicity of construction and operation.

Drawing:

Figure 1 is an elevation of a sewing machine in part and embodying the means for making an indentation line in a collar;

Figure 2 is a perspective view of the impression die;

Figure 3 is a portion of a collar showing the first stages of applying a row of stitching and the impression die making the indentation simultaneously;

Figure 4 is a perspective view of several plies of material formed and shaped to represent a collar, and before the first stage of applying stitches and indentation thereto;

Figure 5 is an elevation of a collar showing the same after the indentation line has been applied to the collar;

Figure 6 is a sectional View of the same taken on the line 6'o of Figure 5;

Figure 7 is an elevation of the collar having been turned right side out;

Figure 8 is an enlarged sectional View of the same taken on the line 88 of Figure 7;

Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure '7 and showing a collar with the stitching applied thereto; and

Figure 10 is a sectional view of the same taken 5 on the line Ill-Ill of Figure 9.

Description:

As seen in the drawing and referring more particularly to Figures 1 to 3 inclusive, we have shown part of a conventional sewing machine I5 such as used for applying stitching to garments to be sewn, especially when there are a number of plies of material. In this connection collars for attachment to shirts of the semi-still variety are usually manufactured wrong-side out and after being first cut and shaped, a row of stitching is applied adjacent the outer edge on three sides, after which the collar is turned right-side out, following which the finishing touches are then applied. In so doing, there is usually a double edge, the inside or lining ply edge and the outside or facing ply edge, the operator in applying the second or final row of stitching must of necessity keep pushing the lining edge away from the outside or facing ply edge simultaneously with the stitching operation. In following out such a pro- 10 cedure, much time has been lost and furthermore,

it has often resulted in inaccuracies in forming the beaded edge. It is to overcome these deficiencies and to obtain greatest expediency and accuracy in forming collars and the like to which 15 the present invention is especially directed.

In carrying out the invention, we have found it expedient to utilize the conventional sewing machine i5 having the usual stitching needle it for feeding thread to a garment to be sewn. In this case the needle holder H is preferably of a slightly greater diameter in cross-section than is usual in the ordinary sewing machine, the purpose of' which is to accommodate reception and retaining of an indentation member l8 therein. In construction said member is provided with a stem t9, the upper end of which fits snugly within an opening provided within the said holder H, andthe lower end of which terminates in a substantially rectangular body 29 having a shoulder 2| to rest against the underside of the holder H. A set screw 22 is provided to retain the member securely in place by clamping through the holder against stem IQ of the member. The underside or bottom of said body 29 of the member I8 is preferably wedge-like or formed into a V-shaped die 23 so that in operation a proper and continuous indentation may readily be made in a garment while being sewn (as clearly seen in Figure 3).

The indentation member i8 is preferably slightly to one side of the needle l6 and extends downwardly approximately midway of the length of the needle, and with the V-shaped die portion or edge parallel to the direction of feed or line of stitching. It is to be noted that the needle extends downwardly through an opening 24 in the sewing machine bed and when fully depressed the V-shaped end of the member l8 rests within a similar shaped cut-out portion in the machine 50 bed, said cut-out portion likewise being parallel to the direction of feed of the material or line of stitching made by the machine.

In operation and carrying out the invention, plies of fabric suitably cut to conform to the 55 CAD shape of a collar 25, are placed on the bed of the sewing machine and juxtaposed edges of said plies properly spaced so that the outside margin of the said collar is directly in path of the needle l6 and member I8. The operator then starts the machine and the first row or connecting stitches 26 may be then applied along three sides of the collar. As the stitching is applied, the indentation member, by virtue of the V-shaped die or under edge, simultaneously with the stitching operation, makes a continuous impression or indentation 21 in one side of the material as will readily be seen in Figures 3, and 6. Owing to the stitches being of a slightly less length than the length of the under edge of the V-shaped die, the indentation assumes the impression of a continuous marking.

Referring now more particularly to Figures 5 and 6, it will be noted that the three margins or sides of the same have been sewn together and that the indentation line 2'! is parallel to the row of stitching 26. It is now ready for the next step, namely, that of turning the same right-side out.

As seen in Figures '7 and 8 of the drawing the collar 25 has been turned right-side out and the material comprising the inside or neck portion of the collar is properly folded at its outer edge on the indentation line 21, thereby forming bead 28 beyond the stitching on the outside material. In this respect the material folds automatically on the line 2'! and no bulging or overlapping beyond this edge takes place.

As seen in Figures 9 and 10, the collar 25 is now ready to be finished, and in accordance with the invention a second or final row of stitching 29 may be applied without the necessity of the operator having to keep the edges of the lining ply pushed inwardly away from the edge of the outside material or ply. In this finished condition, the collar takes on the appearance of uniformity and neatness of appearance and is ready to be attached to a shirt.

We claim:

In combination with a sewing machine having a needle and a holder for said needle, an indentation means having a stem carried in said holder adjacent one side of the needle, said indentation means comprising a substantially rectangular body portion and terminating into a blunt V- shaped die with the lower edge thereof above the lower end of the needle and operable with the said needle for intermittently engaging and making an impression in the material being sewn for producing a fold line, said impression being to one side and parallel to the line of stitching whereby the material may be readily folded on the impression line adjacent to and clear of the line of stitches.

HOWARD C. UNDERWOOD. EDWARD B. ROBY. 

